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  • North Shore, Diamond Head and Home

    • 30 Jan 2012
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    I'm back home - doing laundry and cleaning gear. It's amazing it is over already, as always. I slept 10 hours last night and will be heading off to bed early tonight, if possible.The Saturday night block party was crazy - lots and lots of people. That day, Justin rented a convertable Jeep and we all headed over to the North Shore to see what big waves look like. We missed the biggest waves by a day, but they were still impressive. I took some pictures and video (below).

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    We had lunch before heading back. Although there was a lot of traffic, it is still a very different feel than Honlulu. There is more space and small funky towns. The mountains tower over everything - it is really pretty. When we got back, the Pro Bowl block party was gearing up. Two of our divers, Jeff and Ben, decided to spend the evening back at the hotel and rest up and Justin and me and Amy decided to hit the block party. Justin had to return the Jeep so Amy and I went ahead to the block party and planned to meet up with him when he got back. There were all kinds of street vendors and several stages set up all along the main drag along Waikiki. A drumline was wandering through the crowd. Every so often, they would stop and perform. Amy and I lucked out when they stopped right in front of us and performed. There is a video below.

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    Next, we decided to head over to Jimmy Buffet's bar and wait for Justin. There is a picture of that too - the darkish neon one. 3 hours and too many Buffet songs later, we were still waiting. The streets were so much of a mess due to the block party, that Justin was stuck in traffic endlessly. So, after a few drinks and being dead tired, Amy and I headed back to the hotel. We finally met up with Justin on the way. He said that he finally made it to the agency to return the Jeep only to find out they were closed! What a nightmare! Anyway, he continued off to have a few well-deserved drinks while I called it a night.

    Amy and I had agreed to meet early in the morning to hike to the top of Diamond Head Crater (Le’ahi, in Hawaiian). We had to be back for the shuttle to the airport, which was picking us up at 1:00. That morning, I did my habitual run to Starbucks and then, since Justin still had the Jeep, he ran us over to the Diamond Head trailhead. The trail is .8 miles one way. It has several switchbacks and a section of steep stairs - rumor has it, about 99 individual stairs - to get to the summit. The climb goes up 560 feet. It was a glorious day and we left early enough to avoid most of the crowds and heat. The views were spectacular! Amy set the pace and what a pace it was. I think we must have set a hiking speed record doing the full circuit. It was fun, though, and I kept up pretty well. Vibram Fivefingers rock - I felt like Spiderman clinging to the rocky path! When we got back down to the start of the trail, we caught a cab back to the hotel. Once he got wind that we were divers, the cab driver enthusiastically talked to us about his past diving experience - or, at least, some old gear he owns, I'm not quite clear on whether he actually dove or just had old gear. He seemed obsessed with knives and sharks and cages and sharks and bang-sticks and sharks. Then, when we left the cab, he tried to sell me a GTO he had...somewhere (that wasn't clear either).

    I packed up and walked over to my last Hawaii meal for the trip: Cheeseburger in Paradise. The last pictures you see are from there. I love how everything is open-air.

    Then, another shuttle ride. The relaxing end to the trip, but wait! This is freaky cab/shuttle driver day, evidently.

    Our shuttle driver had on a neon magenta wig that matched the petals on her Hawaiian shirt.

    20120129_shuttle_driver

    This is not all that odd in Hawaii, actually. People feel good and get into a celebratory spirit. No problem. She loaded us in and picked up a few other passengers, making really sure that we all buckled up. We then got our shuttle driver's life history and, after 10 minutes or so, we realized we were nowhere near the airport. She had taken the 'scenic' route through Honolulu and the proceeded to give us a guided tour! The civic buidings, the palace, etc., etc. She was a bit directionally challenged, as well (not good for a driver). She'd say, 'and off to your right, you'll see the tennis courts of <fill in some resort>, but the tennis courts were on the left. This happened several times. My favorite was when she was telling us about some big mall that had a food court with cuisine from all over the world: "so, you can go to Paris and get pizza, and to Greek to get greek food." ;-?

    Did I mention this was supposed to be a shuttle to the airport? To catch a plane?! The drive that normally takes about 15 minutes took about 40 minutes. It was crazy! Maybe she was using her shuttle job to practice for a tour job she was applying for, I'm not sure. Makes for good blogging fun, I guess.

    We then got to the airport and the security line was huge. I'm wondering if we are going to get the plane at this point. The TSA person on the belt scolded everyone and insisted that shoes DO NOT GO IN THE BINS! They go directly on the belt and he seemed a bit obsessed about this. It was sort of scary and this attempt at training weary travellers for security line efficiency slowed down the line even more.

    So finally we made it through security. Should be home free. But, um no. I've been through this airport enough to sleepwalk to the gate. It is always gate fifty something, really close to the security point; however, it had been changed to gate 30. Sounds like no big deal, but gate 30 is in the international terminal, which is quite a hike. And, yes there was a line again when we got close, similar to security. Will it never end?! This is the Agriculture line. We crept through that and walked and walked and walked to, finally, gate 30. I felt like I'd climbed Diamond Head again! The plane was boarding, so, by some miracle, we made it somehow.

    2.5 movies later and I was back in Phoenix.

    Would have probably just been easier to stay in Hawaii ;-}

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  • Pearl Harbor and Night Vision

    • 28 Jan 2012
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    Yesterday, we spent most of the day at Pearl Harbor. I've been there once before, but didn't get to see the USS Arizona Memorial or Aviation Museum. Everyone was ready for a bit of a break, so off we went. Last time I was there, several of the exhibits were undergoing renovations. That was all over now, so there was more to see. It is very worthwhile.

    The USS Arizona was sunk quickly during the attack on Pearl Harbor. Over 1000 sailors died when she went down. About 900 remains are still on the ship, so it is a tomb as well as a memorial. The experience and emotions can be very strong in there. Thinking too much of what it could have been like for those sailors can be a bit maddening. Pieces of the ship are visible above the water and you can see the rest of it not far below the surface. The first picture after the sign that says "USS Arizona..." is of the USS Missouri in the background. There is a round mooring ball in front of that. That is the location of the bow of the USS Arizona. There is a continual oil slick as the wreck is leaking oil (that was never cleaned out), and the smell of oil is very strong, giving the memorial a sense of immediacy even though it happened 70 years ago. I felt a little odd taking pictures even, but that is the best way I can see and contemplate -composing through a lense. The event was horrific, but it does carry a sense of uneasy peace, as well. I think my favorite picture from the memorial is the flowers floating in the water on the oil slick.

    After Pearl Harbor, we came back, got dinner and went out for 2 night dives. I only got a few pictures from that. There is a view of the coastline from in the water. If you look close you can see the silouette of a diver in front of me. We disturbed the sleep of a puffer - poor guy - but a good photo ;-} So, the pictures you see are taken in the glow of my light and that of a few other divers around me. The last one is looking off to my left. You can see a lot of dark and the lights of divers about 30 feet away. Night diving is surreal. It is all about what is in close proximity.

    The first few pictures are from the night before Pearl Harbor. We watched the sun set at Rum Fire.

    I didn't do the morning dives today. I've stayed back at the hotel, doing laundry, blogging, enjoying the breeze and letting my ears dry out. We will be heading up to the North Shore this afternoon, I think.

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  • Wait a minute - is this Belize?

    • 28 Jan 2012
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    A busy schedule and problems with wireless going up and down have been delaying posts and pictures. I wanted to get these pictures up. They are from Thursday. As I mentioned in the earlier post, there were some large swells. It reminded me a lot of Belize as it is normal to have large swells there. It is unusual for Oahu, though. We did have fewer new diver issues to address - well, mostly - so I got to spend a good chunk of time on the Sea Tiger. The Sea Tiger is a 168 foot ship. It was sunk in 1999. The deck sits at about 80 feet and the bottom of the boat is at about 120 feet. It is pretty impressive. It has some covered walkways to swim through along its sides. Very nice! The second shallow dive was along the pipe again, but as mentioned in the earlier post, the sea was rough enough to rip out the first mooring we attached to. When we finally did go in, visibility was terrible, so not much chance of pictures. Hung out on Waikiki the rest of the afternoon and evening.

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  • Yesterday and Today

    • 26 Jan 2012
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    So, I tried to post these last night, but the wireless connection was having none of it. I was cut off from the internet for several hours. It was sort of frightening ;-}

    The camera is still drying out from this morning's dives (the housing, that is), so I haven't loaded those yet. Today, we did the Sea Tiger again in the morning. The seas were rough today - large swells, but when we got underwater, it was calm and clear. 60 - 70 foot visibility. Got to tour the whole wreck. Saw some BIG turtles and lots of fish. Really nice dive. Getting back on the boat was a challenge in the swells. It reminded me of Belize.

    For the second dive, we were going to dive the deep mooring on the "pipe." This is an unused drainage pipe that has coral building on it. Day one, we did the shallow mooring. It was hard for our captain to locate the mooring points with the swells and it was getting a bit murky in the shallower water, too. We finally hooked into the mooring. Divers started getting into the water and when all but three of us were in, someone noticed the buoy, that is supposed to be under water at the mooring point, was floating on the surface. The surface was rough enough that it pulled the mooring buoy right out! Now, compared to Belize, this would be about normal, but it is rare to get seas like this in Oahu. So, the divers in the water went off and those of us left on the boat waited until the captain got tied into another mooring before going in. Visibility was pretty bad but we did see some creatures. We are all back and showered and ready to hit Waikiki for the afternoon and evening...

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  • Oahu, Again

    • 25 Jan 2012
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    We landed in Honolulu yesterday, about 11am Hawaii time. That would be about 2pm for Arizona home-time. A van from Oahu Divers picked us up right from there and we went directly to the dive shop by the ocean and from there out for two shallow dives. Hardcore, I know. I don't have pictures from these two dives. There wasn't much time to get the camera ready and we had several new divers in our group, so this time was devoted - and planned - to help them get familiar. First dives are also notorious for working out equipment quirks, so I've learned to just keep it simple the first time in.

    After diving we had dinner and crashed. This morning, we did two dives - Sea Tiger, which was a wreck dive, and Kaiser Reef, which was a shallower dive. Visibility wasn't great (for Hawaii), a mere 30 - 40 feet, but there was quite a lot of sealife. I do have pictures. They are just not ready to post. I am armed with my new Canon G12 and housing, so I'm learning some new camera ropes. There where hits and misses. I loaned my Sealife DC1000 to Amy, one of our dive group, and she got some really nice shots, too.

    Two additional afternoon dives were planned for those that wanted to go. I opted out and spent the afternoon roaming around Waikiki. The beaches and streets are pretty busy here. Lots going on! We will be gathering to head down to Lulu's for a little dinner and night life. Honolulu has a lot of night life. Will post pictures later when I get them sorted out.

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  • A Hui Hou

    • 11 Nov 2011
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    That means, "'til we meet again." You don't really say goodbye in Hawaiian or to Hawaii. This is the wrap up. I am getting the final things packed to head for the plane and to home. I have to say that when I leave here, I feel like I am leaving home. It is a bit sad, but there is a strong feeling of taking some of the islands with me and I know I will return, so it is not so bad. For awhile, back home, I'll be a bit more sane. That is the gift from spending time here.

    Wednesday night, after diving, I took a well-deserved nap. I then went down to spend the evening in Lahaina. This was not a shopping excursion, but a time to absorb Lahaina and the night life there. I went to Cool Cat Cafe for burgers and rum-tinged drink. There is  a picture looking out from my table at Cool Cat along Front Street.

    It was a perfect night! I got slightly buzzed on rum, the evening temperature was perfect and there was this amazing full moon over it all. There was live music playing at a restaurant along the shore. I particularly remember a rendition of Black Magic Woman. The sun was going down, I was midway through my second drink and that moon was up. I finally completely relaxed - let go. Yes, it took that long, but it happened. It was golden ;-}

    I strolled through the town, wandering through galleries and taking pictures and just being happy. Then I went home to bed.

    Yesterday, I went up to The Plantation for breakfast. It is on the Honolua golf course. The pictures looking way down the hill to the ocean are from there. Rain was on and off all day and, man, was it a day for rainbows! As I drove down from Honolua, I stopped at overlooks and took pictures (between rain storms). I had intended to wander around Honokowai, the area I am in, but the on and off rain made that difficult (when it rains, it rains hard). No matter, I spend the day with the front door and patio door open, creating a constant cool breeze through the place. I watched the rain and the waves and the periods of sunshine. I spent the time catching up my blog and rested.

    The last pictures you see are from the sunrise this morning. Since I've been giving you sunsets and rainbows, it seemed a sunrise was in order. I also included one of the rainy day so there is a full set ;-}

    There are also some scattered pictures from a dive and a view of Black Rock.

    So ends another adventure and, as with all adventures, I feel a bit less ghostly and a bit more substantial. Adventure makes you real ;-}

    Aloha!

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  • 5 Graves/5 Caves

    • 10 Nov 2011
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    Wednesday's second dive was a shallow, relaxed and fun. The site is called 5 Graves, or, sometimes, 5 Caves. It is along the Makena coastline. Makena is a very high-end part of Maui. Tiger Wood used to own one of the big houses on the shorline I'm filming. You'll see another boat there with kayaks and tons of snorkelers. Caverns, again, and lots of active fish. The first ones, the little white ones I'm filming are box fish. I wish I had a zoom. I love boxfish. The look like little zeppelins. Matt finds another octopus. It is putting out tons of ink. He knows how to handle them and does not hurt them. It is amazing to see them, but I always feel a little bad because I know the ink indicates they are somewhat traumatized. They do like to hang onto things. If you can get them to wrap around your arm and kind of vibrate your arm, they'll hold on. One of the other divers (Derek, I believe) takes a turn at holding the octopus before it takes off.

    Lots of turtles here. The big one seems totally unimpressed with us and doesn't budge even when a snorkeler free-dives down to take a close look.

    The last thing my camera films before the battery dies is a moray eel. Again, I wish I had a zoom.

    After the battery died, we went into a bubble cave. You swim into it underwater and it has an airspace inside where you can surface. You can feel the air pressure changing in there, too.

    We then swam into a cave entrance with a low overhang. There were probably 5 or 6 white-tip reef sharks in there hanging out under the ledge. They moved in and out a bit, but seemed pretty used to divers so we got to actually see them (they usually zip off pretty fast).

    A great end to the dives!

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  • Finally hit The Wall…

    • 10 Nov 2011
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    Wednesday was an early day. I had planned a dive with Pro Diver, leaving out of Kihei. If Mother Nature complied, I was expecting to dive the back wall of Molokini Crater. This has been on my list for a while. Kihei boat ramp is about a 45+ minute drive from where I am staying. I had to be to the boat ramp by 5:45am, meaning I got up at about 4:00am (YAWN)!

    The AM didn’t look hopeful. Rainy and windy in Honokowai, where I am at. It squalled and cleared the whole drive there. Mostly, it squalled. At one point, the road is single lane. Speed limit is 45 – 55. I, of course, got behind someone creeping along at 30. They seemed oblivious of the abundance of pull-offs they could have taken to let the chain of cars behind them go.  Ah, well. We are in Maui and in no real hurry, right? ;-}

    I was pretty impressed with the number of fellow travelers I had that early. I guess it makes sense with all of the boating industry happening. The captains and crew would have to be up early enough to get the boats ready and in the water.

    As it is with Hawaii weather, you either wait a few minutes or drive a few miles and the weather will change. By the time I got to the boat ramp, it was clear and calm. It turned out to be a beautiful morning for diving and Molokini was calm enough for us to do the wall. Happiness!

    Two years ago, I dove the inside of Molokini Crater with family. We saw a lot of creatures and it turned out to be a great dive – one of my most memorable. I’ve heard several people who’ve had mediocre experiences there. The time I was there, though, it was great!

    Anyway, the back wall is nothing like the front side. The experience inside the crater is a reef experience, lots of animals, a bottom you can see, etc. The wall is an abyss experience. It is usually done as a drift dive, with current moving you along. The wall side has some sea life, but the experience is to be hovering in the middle (well, more towards the top) of a 300+ foot drop. There is always a chance to see larger pelagic animals out there in the deep blue: oceanic sharks, rays, swordfish, etc. It is fairly rare but whales and whale sharks have also been seen out there. If you don’t see any of these, you have that timeless bluescape to look into, similar to the blue hole in Belize (see earlier posts), which is mesmerizing in its own way.

    So, the video is mainly about the glorious abyss. At one point I bring my (borrowed) computer into view. It’s pretty quick, but what it is showing is that I am at 82 feet (I get down to about 103 feet). There are people below me, probably around 115 – 120 feet. A little later, I swing the camera up and, after the video goes through a little epileptic light fit, you can see the waves on the surface hitting the rock. That means visibility is at least 130 feet! Probably more like 150+ feet. It’s hard to tell that, isn’t it? This is why the back wall of Molokini is considered an advanced dive.  The dive operators I’ve talked to won’t take beginning divers here. You need a certain amount of experience to qualify. You really have to have control of your buoyancy and be comfortable and aware enough in the water to monitor your depth. It would be far too easy to go too deep and get into trouble if you were distracted and/or not paying attention.

    Our dive master, Matt, did find an octopus and I thought I had filmed it but must have missed switching the camera on (again). It is kind of hard to tell when it is on. It was very cool, but you’ll have to take my word for it (again);-{

    BTW: Brian, Lori, Steve, Karol, Guy, if you are reading this, Matt is the same great dive master we had when we were at Molokini two years ago. Still finding octopus on every dive.

     

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  • Getting schooled in Paradise...

    • 10 Nov 2011
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    The second dive on Tuesday was a site called, “No Name Paradise (an unnamed site in Paradise Cove).” This was really really cool. Here’s why:

    1) There was a drama playing out here and you can see it in the video. The blueish striped fish you see is a Hawaiian Seargent Major. These are a variety of damsel fish. The female lays the eggs and it is up to the male to guard the nest. As you’ll see, this is an exhausting task. You’ll see the male Seargent Majors charging us as we go by. They perceive divers as a potential threat to their nest and bravely try and drive us away. You’ll also see other reef fish really close to us. In fact, they are following with us. They have figured out divers are a distraction to the Sergeant Majors and will wait for the fish to charge us and then swoop in to feed on the eggs. In one case, you’ll see that defending the eggs is all but a lost cause for one of the poor guys as a gaggle of fish attack his nest. That’s not all.  One of the most common opportunists is the saddle wrasse – that’s the dusky blue fish with the orange splash across the back of it’s head. There were a lot of these following us. Towards the end of the video, you’ll also see a large trumpet fish hanging around a nest. It is waiting for a saddle wrasse to get careless so it can snap it up. Saddle wrasses are fast. Trumpet fish are no match for them, so they hang out trying to look harmless waiting for a chance (ambush predator). Trumpet fish, aside from being one of the most unique fish you’ll see, have thin stripes that change orientation depending on the background they are against – the stripes can change from horizontal to vertical, for instance, if that makes them look more stick-like in the background they are in.

    2) There was a large school of Blue Striped Snapper. In a group, these fish almost become one large organism, making shapes in the water as they school. You’ll see a spinning ball of them and they stretch out almost into a stream at points. They also are not picky about who schools with them. If a diver is careful and gentle with their movements, the fish will let you school with them. I get into a group of them at one point. This was totally awesome!

    Also towards the end, when I am filming across the top of  the coral where the mooring line is, you’ll see a pale blue fish that flaps its pectoral fins when it moves (like a bird). This is a parrot fish. They scrape coral as they eat, digesting the algae and pooping out the leftover coral as sand. Really!

    I should note this, too. My video looks really blue. It does not do justice to the colors I can see. You lose red as you go deeper into the water, true, but the camera loses more red than I do. What I am seeing is not as vivid as what you see in Victoria's camera shots where a flash is used, but it is more vivid than what the video camera sees. I need to see if I can apply some filters at some point to bring some of the color back. Anyway, Blue Striped Snapper are gorgeous. They are golden with vivid blue stripes. They looked like they were designed by Maxfield Parrish; and, well, you see the amazing way they move when they school. This was a favorite moment.

     

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  • Another religious experience...

    • 10 Nov 2011
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    One of my diving goals this trip was to dive 2nd Cathedral. First time out to Lana'i, we did 1st Cathedral. That was pretty cool and it was fun to get flushed out one of the sides ;-} Well, on Tuesday, I signed up again (I admit, I'm a dive junkie), and got to see the 2nd Cathedral, as well.

    Which was better, 1st or 2nd? The answer is both.

    I enjoyed exploring the inside of 1st Cathedral - it was very surreal with all of the light shining through and the caved in rock in the middle looked sort of like an alter. It was pretty amazing really.

    I love caverns and 2nd Cathedral was beautiful, as well.

    Interior-wise, I think I preferred 1st Cathedral by a slight margin. 2nd Cathedral had a lot more sealife and activity, though. That is where it really stood out. Fish coming up close to you and lots of them. So, 1st Cathedral had the mystery and 2nd Cathedral had the congregation. It's a matched set ;-}

    Our divemaster on this trip, Victoria, took pictures (an additional service), and I decided to give that a try. I am always taking the pictures, so I don't get to see me in most of them (except for a self-conscious spin of the camera). Also, I was taking video, so it was good to have someone snapping photos of some of the creatures.

    The gorgeous photos here are Victoria's. She has an enviable camera rig as well as a terrific eye.

    I decided, after seeing her pictures, that I need to upgrade my underwater photo equipment <sigh>;-{

    I have also included my video.

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